Best Time to Visit Changsha

Autumn is the sweet spot

October and November are the best months for Changsha. October is the warmer one, with highs around 25°C and cool, comfortable nights. It's also one of the driest months, so you can walk Orange Isle (Juzizhou, the long island in the Xiang River) without dodging showers. November is cooler and a bit wetter, but still pleasant for a day in the Yuelu Mountain area.

Skies are rarely bright here, even in the good months. Expect soft light, not postcard blue. Autumn is also when the maple leaves on Yuelu Mountain turn red, and Aiwan Pavilion is the classic spot to see them.

Crowds peak around China's Golden Week, the national holiday in the first week of October. Trains, hotels and Orange Isle all get packed. If you hate queues, go in the second half of the month or in November.

Winter and spring: damp and grey

December is the next best choice. It's the driest month of the year and cold but not harsh. Winter here is the tricky one, though. Houses in this part of China often have no central heating, so a 2°C night can feel colder indoors than it sounds. Hot pot is the answer. Try the local Hunan version, with plenty of chilli, and book a place with a heater.

January and February are quiet apart from Chinese New Year, when many restaurants close for a few days and the city empties out. March and April warm up nicely, but it rains on more than half the days. The upside is green hills and fewer visitors. Bring a proper umbrella for the walk up Yuelu.

Summer: hot, wet and sticky

May and June are the wettest stretch, with rain on most days. June brings the heaviest rain and the most humid air. July and August turn dry-ish but hot, with highs of 32°C and warm nights that stay around 24°C or more. Afternoons feel heavy, and you'll want to slip into a mall or a teahouse by midday.

Still, summer has its charm after dark. Locals fill the riverside and the night-food streets around Taiping Street. Try stinky tofu, a Changsha favourite, and cold noodles. The Mangguo (Mango) TV crowd also makes the city lively for young Chinese travellers, especially during school holidays in July and August.

Travelling with kids? Go in late September instead. It's still warm, but the rain drops off and school is back in session.