Best Time to Visit Sendai

May and early autumn: the best of the year

May is your best bet in Sendai. Days reach about 20°C, nights are cool, and rain falls on only 12 days. The zelkova trees along Jozenji-dori, the main tree-lined avenue downtown, are bright green. It's good walking weather for Zuihoden, the Date clan's ornate mausoleum, and Sendai Castle ruins, where you get a view over the city.

The Aoba Matsuri, a big festival with a samurai-style parade, takes place in mid-May. Hotels fill up then, so expect higher demand. Golden Week, the national holiday stretch from late April into early May, is the busiest time of all.

April is a fair second choice. Cherry blossoms usually come in mid-April, with Nishi Park and Shiroishi River's tree-lined banks as favourite spots. It's still chilly, and the nights are close to freezing in early spring.

Summer: green, sticky and wet

June and July bring the rainy season. July is the wettest month, with 207 mm over 18 days, and it feels damp and grey. Humidity stays high into August, which is the hottest month at about 29°C.

Still, summer has one big draw. The Sendai Tanabata Festival runs 6 to 8 August. Huge paper streamers hang over the shopping arcades, like Chuo-dori and Clis Road. It's crowded and warm, but it's the most famous event in town. Go in the morning if you want space to look.

Want a beach day? Matsushima Bay, a short train ride away, is lovely for boat trips among the pine-covered islands. Pick a dry spell, since sun is limited in July.

Autumn and winter: quiet, cool and grey

September is still humid and rainy, and typhoon season can bring heavy storms. October cools off to a comfortable 18°C by day. Rain is still frequent, but the crowds are thin. Try a hot bowl of imo-ni, the taro and pork stew, at a riverside picnic in Hirose River's park, a local autumn tradition.

November through March is cold and dim. January and February have highs of just 1°C, with only about two hours of sun a day. Snow is lighter than in northern Japan, but the wind bites.

Winter has its upsides. It's low season, so rooms are easier to find. Gyutan, grilled beef tongue, is Sendai's signature dish, and it tastes best on a cold night. In December the Pageant of Starlight lights up Jozenji-dori, which is a cosy reason to visit despite the 24 rainy or snowy days.