Best Time to Visit Hohhot

Summer: green grasslands, afternoon rain

June to August is when the grasslands outside Hohhot turn green, and it's the best time for a yurt stay (a round felt tent) at places like Xilamuren, about an hour or so north of the city. Days are warm, not scorching. July is the hottest month and the wettest, with rain on 13 days. Expect short, heavy showers rather than grey weeks. August is a touch cooler and still rates Excellent.

This is high season for Chinese families, especially in July and August when schools are out. Grassland camps fill up and prices rise. If you hate crowds, aim for early June instead.

Spring and autumn: the sweet spots

May and June are the easiest months for a first visit. Days are warm, evenings are cool and the air is dry. You can wander the Dazhao Temple and the old Muslim quarter without sweating through your shirt. Try shaomai, a thin-skinned steamed dumpling filled with lamb, which is a Hohhot classic.

September is just as good. The rain eases, the grass turns gold and the crowds thin out after the summer rush. October is crisper, with the most sunshine of the year, but nights drop close to freezing. April is lovely for city walking, though it's still cold after dark. Early October also overlaps with China's National Day holiday, so expect busy trains and hotels that week.

Winter: cold, dry and quiet

From December to February, daytime stays below freezing in January and December, and nights get brutal. Skies are often clear and the city is quiet. It's a fair choice if you want bargain hotels and don't mind ducking into teahouses and museums. The Inner Mongolia Museum is a good warm refuge, with its dinosaur fossils and Mongol history.

Grassland trips are harder now. Many camps close, and the snow-covered steppe is stark more than pretty. March is still raw, so wait for April if you can.

Festivals worth planning around

The Naadam fair, with horse racing, wrestling and archery, usually peaks in July and August on the grasslands. Dates vary by place, so check locally before you book. Lunar New Year in late January or February brings family feasts, and many local restaurants shut for a few days.