Best Time to Visit Indore

Winter and October: the sweet spot

From October to February, Indore is at its best. Days are warm and sunny, and nights get properly cool in December and January, when lows dip to about 10°C. October is still a little humid after the rains, but the skies clear and the city feels washed clean.

This is the time to walk around Rajwada, the old royal palace, and the nearby Lalbagh Palace without sweating through your shirt. It's also the best season for food. Evenings at Sarafa Bazaar, the jewellery market that turns into a night food street, are a joy when the air is cool. Try poha with jalebi, bhutte ka kees (spiced grated corn) and garadu (fried yam). If you're after a trip with day outings, winter also suits Mandu and Maheshwar, both within a few hours' drive.

Diwali usually lands in October or November. The markets glow and the city gets busy, so expect fuller hotels and tighter trains. Winter weddings and the Christmas to New Year break add to the crowds too.

March to May: hot and dry

Heat builds quickly. March is fine for mornings and evenings, but April and May are tough, with highs of 40°C and 41°C. The air is dry, the sun is fierce, and midday is best spent indoors.

It's low season for leisure travel, so rooms are easier to find. If you're visiting family or coming for work, you'll cope by sightseeing early and eating late. Rangpanchami, the colourful day of powder and water five days after Holi, is Indore's big spring event. The city celebrates with street processions called Gair, and you will get soaked and coloured. It usually falls in March.

Don't plan a heavy sightseeing trip in May unless you have to. Cool, air-conditioned places like the Central Museum are a better bet.

June to September: the monsoon

The rains arrive in June and peak in July, which is the wettest month with 315 mm. August is close behind. July also has the least sun, at under two hours a day. Humidity is high, roads can flood, and skies are grey for days.

It isn't all bad. The hills around the city turn green, and waterfalls near Mandu and Patalpani, a short drive from Indore, run strong. If you love moody landscapes and quiet sights, this can be rewarding. Just keep your plans loose.

Ganesh Chaturthi in late August or September brings big decorated idols and lively processions through the city. If you only have one week, though, choose the cooler months instead.