Best Time to Visit Mumbai

November to February: the sweet spot

This is the Mumbai most people hope for. Days are warm and mostly dry, and evenings are pleasant enough for a long walk along Marine Drive. November and December rate Excellent, and January is Good. February starts to warm up, so it's Fair.

It's also high season, so you'll share the sights with plenty of people. Colaba, the Gateway of India and the Elephanta Island ferries get busy, especially around Christmas and New Year. The Kala Ghoda Arts Festival usually fills the art district in February. Its street stalls, music and dance make that a good month for a city break. Travelling with kids? The Christmas holidays are the time Indian families travel too, so expect queues.

March to May: hot and heavy

March and April are the hottest, and April tops out at 40°C. Afternoons are fierce, so do your sightseeing indoors. The Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya museum and the cool corners of the Fort area work well. Come back out at dusk for chaat (savoury street snacks) at Juhu or Girgaum Chowpatty.

May is still hot, and it feels stickier as humidity climbs. The first showers are close, but the real rain hasn't arrived. This is low season, so hotels are easier to find. If you hate crowds and can handle heat, it's workable. Gudi Padwa, the Maharashtrian new year, usually falls in March or April, with colourful processions in Girgaum.

June to September: the monsoon

Be honest with yourself about this one. July brings 988 mm of rain on 30 days, and August and September aren't much drier. Skies stay grey, with barely any sun. Streets flood, and trains can slow down or stop. Many beaches are closed for swimming because of rough seas.

There's a upside. The city turns green, prices drop, and a wet walk with hot tea and vada pav (a spiced potato bun) feels like the real Mumbai. Day trips to Lonavala's waterfalls are popular on weekends.

Ganesh Chaturthi, usually in late August or September, is the big event. Huge clay idols are paraded through the streets and then immersed in the sea. It's loud, joyful and very crowded. Girgaum Chowpatty is the place to see it.

October: the in-between month

October is Fair. The rain fades to 117 mm, but it's still humid and showers can surprise you. Navratri and Diwali often fall in October or November, with lights, sweets and garba (folk dancing) in the evenings. Book a stay early, because the festival crowds arrive before the weather settles.