Best Time to Visit Oaxaca

November to March: dry and easy

This is the best stretch for most trips. Days are warm and sunny, and nights are cool enough that you'll want a jacket for dinner on the Zócalo (the main square). January and February are the driest, with almost no rain. By March it's getting hot, up to 31°C, but the evenings still cool off nicely.

This is the time for climbing around the ruins at Monte Albán, walking the cobbled streets of the Centro, and day trips to the Hierve el Agua rock pools. Markets like Mercado 20 de Noviembre are comfortable to wander, and the smoky grill aisle is much less of an ordeal when it's not sticky.

It's also high season. Expect more visitors and higher hotel demand, especially around Christmas and New Year. Oaxaca holds La Noche de Rábanos (Night of the Radishes), where people carve giant radishes into scenes, on December 23. It's quirky, free and very crowded.

Late October to early November: Day of the Dead

This is Oaxaca's biggest moment, and it's worth planning around. Altars, marigolds, sand tapestries and costumed night processions fill the city and nearby villages from around October 31 to November 2. The weather is good by then. Rain has dropped to 20 mm in November, though October is still damp.

Be honest with yourself about the crowds. Rooms fill up far ahead, and the cemeteries get busy at night. If you hate crowds, come in the week after. The altars often stay up, and the city feels calmer.

April and May: hot, then humid

April is the hottest month, with highs of 32°C and still fairly little rain. It's fine for museums, mezcal tastings and long lunches in the shade. Holy Week (Semana Santa) can bring local families on holiday, so it's busier than the rest of the month.

May is when the weather turns. Storms start to roll in and rain falls on about half the days. Mornings are often clear, though, so do your outdoor plans early.

June to September: the green season

Rain falls on most days, and September is the wettest at 205 mm. Sunshine drops to under four hours a day. It usually comes as heavy afternoon or evening downpours, so mornings can still be pleasant.

The upside is thinner crowds, lower prices and green hills around the valley. The Guelaguetza, a big folk dance festival with groups from across the state, takes place on two Mondays in July and is the exception. It draws crowds, so book early. Travelling on a budget? This is your window, as long as you can live with wet shoes.