Best Time to Visit Makassar

July to September: the dry season

This is when Makassar is at its best. Skies are mostly clear, and August is the driest month, with rain on only about four days. Afternoons are hot but not sticky, and the air feels lighter than the rest of the year.

It's the time for boat trips to the Spermonde islands, a short hop off the coast. Try Samalona for snorkelling, or Lae-Lae if you only have a half day. The sea is calm and the sunsets over Losari Beach are worth the wait. Grab a plate of grilled fish or a bowl of coto Makassar (a rich beef soup) from the stalls along the waterfront.

This is also high season, mostly because of domestic holidays and travellers heading to Tana Toraja, the highlands about eight hours north by road. Toraja funeral ceremonies are often held in the dry months, but dates vary by family, so ask a local guide close to your trip. Rooms in Makassar fill up faster, though it's never as crowded as Bali.

May, June and October: the shoulder months

Want fewer people without the worst rain? Aim for these months. May and June are drier than they were in the spring, though showers still come on about half the days. They tend to be short, and you can often wait them out in a café.

October is hotter, with highs around 32°C, and the rain is starting to return. It's a fair choice for city sightseeing. Fort Rotterdam, the old Dutch fort in the centre, is easy to enjoy on a cloudy afternoon. The nearby Paotere harbour, where wooden phinisi schooners load up, is at its best in the early morning.

December to March: the wet season

Be honest with yourself about this one. January is the wettest month, with rain on 28 days and barely an hour of sun a day. December is almost as bad. Streets can flood, and boats to the islands may be cancelled when the seas get rough.

It's cheaper, and you'll have places to yourself. But the weather won't help you. If you do come, plan for museums, food crawls and long coffee stops rather than beach days. Travelling with kids? Skip these months.

April and November are the in-between months. They're still rated Poor, with rain on more than 20 days, but the downpours ease off a little from the peak.