Best Time to Visit Pokhara

Oct to Apr: the dry, easy months

Pokhara's best stretch runs from October through April. Skies are clearer, and the Annapurna range and Machhapuchhre (the "Fishtail" peak) show up in the early morning. November and December are the driest, with almost no rain. They're also the busiest, so Lakeside's cafés and trekking shops fill up.

October is the big trekking month. It's warm, but a little rain still lingers early on. The Annapurna Circuit and Annapurna Base Camp routes are at their busiest, and permits and teahouse beds get tight. Dashain, Nepal's biggest festival, usually lands in October. Buses fill up, and many locals travel home to their families. Tihar, the festival of lights, follows in October or November, and the lakeside glows with lamps.

Jan to Apr: cool mornings, warming days

January and February are the coldest months, but still mild by day. Evenings by Phewa Lake feel cosy, and you'll want a jacket. Mornings can be hazy, so the mountains don't always show. If you're after a quiet stay, this is a good time.

March and April warm up fast. Rhododendrons bloom on the trails, which makes the Poon Hill trek lovely. Showers start to appear, usually short ones. It's a good time for paragliding off Sarangkot, since the air is warm and the thermals are strong. April is also when Nepali New Year comes, around mid-month.

May to Sep: the monsoon

May is the warm-up. It's hot and sticky, with rain on more than half the days. From June to September, it's properly wet. July is the wettest month, with 438 mm of rain, and it rains on 28 days. Skies are grey, and the mountains hide behind cloud for days.

Is it worth going? If you like green hills and empty streets, maybe. Hotels are cheaper, and you'll have Phewa Lake mostly to yourself. Leeches (small blood-sucking worms) come out on the trails, and landslides can block roads, including the highway to Kathmandu. Flights can be delayed too. Most trekkers skip these months.

Which month for which trip

For big mountain views, pick November to early December or March. For a quiet lakeside rest, try January or February. For festivals, go in October. For paragliding, aim for March to May mornings, though wet May can cancel flights.