Best Time to Visit Papeete

The dry season: May to October

Papeete has two seasons, and the dry one is the one you want. From May to October the air is a little cooler and less sticky. Rain falls on about 11 to 14 days a month in the best stretch, and it's often a short shower. July, August and September all score Excellent. September is the driest of them, by a small margin.

Days are warm, not hot, and evenings are easy. You can walk the waterfront and eat at the *roulottes*, the food trucks that set up at Place Vai'ete after dark. Try poisson cru, raw fish in coconut milk. The sea is calm enough for the ferry to Moorea, which takes about 30 minutes.

The wet season: November to April

From December to February it's warm, humid and often grey. January is the wettest month, with rain on 24 days, and December is close behind with the same number of rainy days. It rarely rains all day, but expect heavy downpours and muddy trails. Hiking in the Papenoo valley is harder then, and boats can be cancelled.

Don't write it off, though. Showers pass, and the lagoon stays warm. If you're on a budget, this is when you'll find the best deals. March and April are a good middle ground. Rain eases and it's still very mild.

Crowds and events

High season runs roughly July to August, when European and North American holidays line up. Flights and rooms fill up, especially on Moorea and Bora Bora. May, June, September and October are quieter and still pleasant. If you hate crowds, aim for those months.

The big event is Heiva i Tahiti, the Polynesian dance and music festival. It runs through much of July, with shows at To'ata Square in Papeete. Expect drums, big costumes and sports like canoe racing and stone lifting. Rooms book up early, so it's worth sorting accommodation well before you go.

Travelling with kids? July and August are easiest for school holidays and calm seas. Mainly after surf? The south coast gets its best swells in the wetter months, though that's a trade-off for the weather.